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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Jan 2, 2019 14:12:25 GMT -5
Hello Alexis,
It is possible to do this but you would have to write your own software/script to communicate with the 240's. Once you install the USB driver, communication becomes an emulated RS-232 communication and you would use the KRDG? query to get the readings. I confirm that the chart recorder is not compatible with the 240's. Please let us know if you have further questions.
Best Regards, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Jan 2, 2019 10:14:33 GMT -5
Dear Matt,
There are a few reasons that could be giving you trouble. First of all, I don't think you can paste everything from excel into the curve handler - unfortunately. You then have to make sure that your curve is in the right format. If I had to guess, your data might be in resistance vs. temp. If that is the case, it will not work. For our NTC RTD's, our instruments look for Log[base10](Ohms) instead of just Ohms in the curve. Below is the header and the first few points of how your curve should look. If you're still having issues, you can also send me your curve to service@lakeshore.com and I can take a look as well.
Sensor Model: CX-1010-AA-0.1L Serial Number: X##### Data Format: 4 (Log Ohms/Kelvin) SetPoint Limit: 325.0 (Kelvin) Temperature coefficient: 1 (Negative) Number of Breakpoints: 192
No. Units Temperature (K)
1 1.47506 325.000 2 1.47957 319.000 3 1.48380 313.500
Best Regards, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Jan 2, 2019 9:30:10 GMT -5
Hello Matt,
I'm glad you found a way to get what you need. If you come across any other questions, please let us know here or send us an email to service@lakeshore.com
Greetings and happy new year!
-Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Dec 21, 2018 10:15:17 GMT -5
Hello!
Please tell me if the measurement was ever correct. Also, do you have a different probe or gaussmeter that you can compare the measurements with?
If anything is wrong, it most likely is the probe. The Hall sensor is in the tip and it is VERY sensitive. Abrasion, shock, etc., will damage the sensor easily which would cause such unexpected measurements. What happens when you zero the probe? Do you get a "larger offset than expected" error message at the end of the zeroing process?
If you need to speak to us directly in service, please call us at 614-891-2243, option 2
Best Regards, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Nov 2, 2018 13:27:24 GMT -5
Hello!
Thank you for posting on our forum!
For the most precise details on the quench detection method, please refer to the explanation in the manual section 4.16. Essentially, the 625 just monitors the rate of change of the current. If the current changes too fast, then it assumes a quench has occurred. If your magnet dropped to 0 A right after the detection, then a quench did actually occur. My guess is that you could be ramping too fast as you're approaching the maximum current of your magnet. Try slowing it down a little bit and see if it occurs again.
Greetings, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Sept 27, 2018 9:07:01 GMT -5
Hello Gaston,
The sensor was purchased uncalibrated and therefore has no calibration data available.
Best Regards, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Sept 7, 2018 10:33:26 GMT -5
Of course - let us know if you continue having connectivity issues after you receive one of the two you suggested.
Greetings, -Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Sept 7, 2018 7:58:40 GMT -5
There is one more thing, and I'm hoping this is it, why this is not working. The serial cable that you're using: is it a null modem cable, which it needs to be? On this type of cable, pins 2 and 3 are swapped on each end. You can see a diagram in the Model 325 manual in section 8.7.1 in the first schematic of that section.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Sept 6, 2018 15:45:28 GMT -5
No problem, I understand what you're trying to configure. You will need to find the drivers of that converter that you have. There are so many of different brands available in the market. Note that we've seen issues with these converters too.. Some seem to work just fine and some simply don't work. After you find the driver on the internet for your specific converter, and install it, I would suggest making sure that you try communicating with the instrument using our communications utility that can be downloaded at the link below. This will be the best and easiest way to confirm that your converter works. www.lakeshore.com/products/pages/icu.aspxIf you have any other questions, please let me know or contact us via phone: 614-891-2243, option 2 for service Thanks and Regards, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Sept 6, 2018 14:31:57 GMT -5
Hello!
Are you possibly referring to our Model 335? The Model 325 does not have a physical USB connection.
If we are dealing with a Model 335, try downloading the drivers directly from Microsoft update.
Best Regards, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Aug 1, 2018 8:31:18 GMT -5
Excellent! Thank you for letting me know.
Best Regards, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Jul 31, 2018 8:15:08 GMT -5
Hello!
The most likely reason is that you have a value set for your manual output. The manual output essentially acts like an offset - so whatever the PID algorithm wants to drive, the manual output will add to that. Please press the manual output button and check if there is a value other than zero. If there is, set it to zero and press the enter key to confirm.
Please let me know what you find.
Greetings, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Jul 26, 2018 12:34:14 GMT -5
Hello!
We do not cycle the bare chips. To cycle them on your own, you could cycle them in LN2 and cycle back to room temperature. Our typical procedure would be 1 minute in LN2 and two minutes outside the dewar (room temp) and 60 cycles.
Let us know if you have any other questions!
Greetings, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Jul 24, 2018 14:07:58 GMT -5
Dear Wei,
As you may know, these values are conservatively set to minimize self heating especially in temperatures below 1 deg. K. These values were set based on many years of collecting sensor data.
Best Regards, Ogi K.
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Post by Lake Shore Ogi on Jun 29, 2018 11:39:46 GMT -5
Dear Charlie,
If you're able to manually control the temperature (with fixing the heater output and waiting for an equilibrium), I don't believe then that you're having a control-type issue and we can look at the instrument, the diode and its wiring.
You can start testing the controller first, to rule out any issues with it. If you have a 100kOhm resistor, you can "mimic" the diode sensor by connecting the resistor the same way (you connected the sensor). With the fixed 10uA excitation current, the 100kOhm resistor will give a 1V which should read approximately 87K (depending on the resistor accuracy). If you're reading in that ballpark, and the measurement is stable, you can focus on checking the sensor and its wiring.
The Model 340 essentially outputs a 10uA DC current to excite the sensor. So if you're looking at it with a scope, you should be seeing a flat line (DC). You can further check the sensor and wiring by measuring the resistance as follows (unplug sensor from 340 during the measurement): - Measure the resistance across diode sensor in forward bias (V+ to V-) [expected = several Meg Ohm] - Measure the resistance across diode sensor in reverse bias (V- to V+) [expected = open/infinity] - Measure resistance from each sensor lead to your system ground [expected = open/infinity]
Greetings, Ogi K.
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